No amount of additional retraction, ‘wiping’, ‘coasting’, or ‘extra restart distance’ would solve the problem. Same model, same orientation, different print settings.įor the life of me, I couldn’t get rid of all the zits on print A: Even though I had retraction enabled, whenever the hotend would come to the end of a segment, I could physically see a bit of filament extrude out. The slicer terms I discuss below are based on Simplif圓D‘s settings.Ĭompare prints A & B (500 micron layers you see there), each 40mm across: So finally today I brought it back to 30mm/sec, and finally, with a ton of fiddling, got some good results. Which is way to hot for PLA, but I learned that when slicing in Simplif圓D’s ‘vase mode’, at that speed, if lower temps are used, the print will delaminate into a slinky when done.įor whatever reason, 45mm/sec was a very important speed in my head, so I spent days trying to calibrate the nozzle at that speed. Below I’ll walk though the details.Īll of the vases and shelving I’ve made ( here, here, & here) have been printed at 45mm/sec, in PLA, at 250 degrees. But after a good… 12 hours of making test prints, I’ve finally got it to a place where I’m starting to get happy with the results (based on my initial settings discussed here). The biggest problem is the 1.0mm E3D-V6 Volcano nozzle leaving blobs all over the place. And while it’s been good at printing large vases and shelves, I’ve not been happy with it’s small-scale detail. And slightly dangerous: “Quick” five hour prints can easily cost close to $20. The C-Bot has been a lot of fun to play with.

Hemera retraction settings